Junior Gaultier Ceremonial Military Jacket “Women Among Women” 1989-90

Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall/Winter 1989–90 collection celebrates strength and femininity through structured silhouettes. It highlights the power and presence of women in a bold, confident way.

At a glance:

Collection: Women Among Women
Season: Fall/Winter 1989–90
Location: Paris — Grande Halle de la Villette
Theme: Feminine strength and solidarity

Notable Models:

Veruschka, Sophie Dahl

Junior Gaultier ceremonial military jacket from Women Among Women 1989–90, featuring structured tailoring and decorative button detailing

The “Women Among Women” collection of Fall/Winter 1989-90 is based on ceremonial military uniforms, including this military jacket. Have a look at the Autumn/Winter 1989/1990 Paris prêt-à-porter women’s show.

If you have any doubt that the collection is based on military uniforms, the Autumn Winter 1989/1990 Paris prêt-à-porter women’s show will put your mind at rest. The models at the beginning of the show wear a take on bearskin caps, the headgear of grenadier and guard regiments in various European armies. They also wear the vest from this post, alongside olive drab coats and tights. If you watch the video to the end, you’ll see the tailoring become more fitted and battle fatigues reminiscent of American G.I.s introduced, along with the regular to Junior Gaultier collections, the bomber jacket. Before you know it, acidic citrus colours burst out of sedate military greens and greys, matched with metallic fabric and a crescendo of shiny black PVC.

When these items came up for sale, I had to have them! I now only have the black version left, as neither ever fit me, but it’s such a beautiful object to own. And like so many other Junior Gaultier garments, the quality is superb, made of 75% wool felt.

I’m pretty sure my Junior Gaultier ceremonial belt, seen below, is also from this collection.

Close-up detail of military-inspired buttons and fastening on Junior Gaultier ceremonial jacket from 1989–90 collection

Back view of Junior Gaultier military-inspired jacket showing structured shoulders and tailored silhouette from Women Among Women 1989–90

Junior Gaultier heart print blouse with long sleeves and structured collar, showing graphic pattern and clean silhouette in early 1990s design

Junior Gaultier orange jacket with fitted silhouette and button fastening, featuring chest pockets and visible seam construction in early 1990s design — Orange moleskin trucker jacket from the “Women Among Women” collection.

Sacred hearts

Comparison of reversible Junior Gaultier jacket showing olive bomber-style design and black with heart emblem, highlighting contrasts in utilitarian and decorative elements in early 1990s fashion

Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Autumn/Winter 1989 womenswear collection was shown at Halle de la Villette during Paris Fashion Week. The collection contrasted and combined masculine and feminine clothing. It was apt that the MA-1 bomber jacket, an American military jacket, was included, complete with a sacred heart motif within the frame of a muselet (the metal cap that covers a champagne cork).

Tailoring techniques as decoration

A black pinstriped wool jacket from the main line “Women Among Women” collection brings the inside out with decorative patterning of zigzag lines that look like the catch-stitching that is most commonly used on garment hems, but can also be used to tack two pieces of fabric together.