Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall/Winter 1989–90 Fantomas collection is inspired by crime, disguise, and cinematic characters. It uses theatrical styling to explore identity and transformation.
- Collection: Fantômas
- Season: Fall/Winter 1989–90
- Location: Paris — Grande Halle de la Villette
- Theme: Crime, disguise, and cinematic villainy
Runway ensemble cast
The collection, like many of Gaultier’s works, reflected a strong connection to pop culture, comic books, and artistic influences and just like the legendary character Robin Hood inspired Gaultier’s 1988 men’s collection, the fictional character Fantômas was the basis for the men’s fall/winter collection of 1989-90. Fantômas was created in 1911 and is one of the most popular characters in the history of French crime fiction, featuring in many novels and films. Fantômas is a ruthless and elusive criminal genius, often depicted wearing anything from a tuxedo and domino mask to a black leotard and hood.
When I first bought this jacket, I thought it was from the “Women Among Women” women’s collection from fall/winter 1989-90. It fit pretty well for a size medium, so I decided to double-check and was surprised to learn that it was from the men’s collection of the same season, Fantômas. It’s an easy mistake to make, as the women’s collection has a military inspiration and is made from the same woollen felt as the vest that I have. The runway included many other military influences, such as caps and brown, button-down shirts.
As I can’t see any of these obvious motifs of the Fantômas character used in the clothes designs, I’m guessing that this eclectic collection echoes his skill of being a master of disguise. In the runway show and advertising campaign, models wear plastic bowler hats and sport menacing waxed moustaches, really getting into character as sneaky criminals.
The jacket has four buttons, which are interestingly off-centre, with hook and eye fastenings securing the collar. The buttons have the same cross emblem, as used in many Junior Gaultier clothes and some Gaultier Jean’s items.
As I have a t-shirt from the same collection, I decided that I’d combine the two for this post. Like many people, as noted by Gaultier Junior High, I thought the design on the t-shirt was an ashtray, but it is in fact the metal cap that covers a champagne cork, which is known as a muselet.
“I have the receipt still” – Junior makes it to the Harlem Drag Ball scene
In the 1990 documentary film Paris Is Burning, the Grandfather of Vogue, Willi Ninja, from the 80s Harlem Drag Ball scene, introduced viewers to his Junior Gaultier earrings:
“I bought this in Japan. And as you can see, it says house couture. I can’t read the rest of it. It has the scissor, and it has Junior Gaultier ’89 on it. Of course, it’s a Gaultier label, emblem I bought it, mind you. I have the receipts still.”
The earring below is identical to the one Willi wears and includes the dog tag elements from the necklace I’m wearing.
Madonna’s hit single Vogue of the same year was inspired by seeing the House of Xtravaganza performing in a nightclub. The video featured Willi. Vogue created some controversy about cultural appropriation and profiting from the culture of queer people of colour.
Another Vogue-related link to Gaultier is that the Vogue video was the first time Madonna was seen in her iconic Jean Paul Gaultier cone bra. Later, she repeated the look in the costumes from her then-upcoming Blond Ambition tour.
At some point in his career, Willi also modelled for Jean-Paul Gaultier.
You’re invited to the show
The show was held on Sunday, 5 th February at the Grande Halle de la Villette, a former slaughterhouse and now a venue for trade fairs, exhibitions, and music festivals.
Promoting the Junior Gaultier line in 1989
A Junior Gaultier magazine advertisement that appears only to promote Gaultier’s dance single “Aow Tou Dou Zat” (“How To Do That”), which was released in 1989 and was available on an album that included multiple remixes of the same song by Norman Cook, JJ Jeczalik, George Shilling, Mark Saunders, Latin Rascals, David Dorrell, Tim Atkins, Carl Atkins, and Mantronik. Tony Mansfield co-wrote and produced the video, which Jean Baptiste Mondino directed. The song also included a duet with accordion musician Yvette Horner, who owned a large collection of Jean Paul Gaultier dresses.
The crossword is credited to Achille Baton, the father of Francis Menuge, Jean Paul’s boyfriend and business partner. Madame Junior from the horoscope is named Francoise, and she and Achille have appeared together in countless Junior advertisements.
Gaultier’s Fantômas camouflage has a heart of orange. (Other colours are also available.)
In a style feature for Arena magazine’s December 1989/January 1990 issue, a model sports a Junior Gaultier camouflage trucker jacket from the Fantômas collection whilst presumably running from police. Both the Fantômas and “Women Among Women” women’s collection from fall/winter 1989 use a heart motif on shirts and blouses, which were slightly distorted to fit within the camouflage pattern.
Needless to say, camouflage has been used widely throughout Gaultier’s career, in all his labels, in very abstract patterns, as well as in the more traditional style seen here. Photomontages of people’s faces have given the illusion of camouflage on Gaultier Jean’s trucker jackets, in particular, a pattern using the likeness of Russian poet, playwright, and artist Vladimirovich Mayakovsky.
All that glitters is not gold
A stunning jacket from the main line fall/winter collection of 1989-90.
The Fantômas collection sits within the wider Junior Gaultier collections 1988–1995, which trace the evolution of the line across its lifetime.