Vintage fashion collector Morgane says older is better in terms of quality and character.
The “Around the World in 168 Outfits” (Voyage Autour du Monde en 186 Tenues) collection from the Spring/Summer of 1989 showcased a diverse range of looks inspired by traditional clothing from around the world, described by Vogue as “a whirlwind tour of the world’s fashion capitals.”
One of Junior Gaultier’s most iconic pieces, in my opinion, is the gold lurex bodysuit from this collection. As I don’t have the figure to wear it, or the princely sum to persuade it into my wardrobe, I was overjoyed when fellow Gaultier fan Morgane agreed to share her views on it.
You are one of the coolest people I follow on Instagram, and a lot of the time you look like a professional editorial model, but you also don’t take yourself too seriously. When you dress to go out, what emotions do you hope your appearance will invoke in people that you meet?
I would say, most of the time, I won’t dress for others, but just for myself. That’s what we like to tell ourselves right? But we have to acknowledge that of course, we know we will be seen by others, and it impacts our outfits in the end.
I guess we all try to look “cool”, but we all have a specific idea of what’s cool and what’s not.
So firstly, what is “going out”? We have so many options there. Am I just going to grab some stuff at the supermarket? I will probably be very lazy and choose comfortable clothes, soft and oversized, and try to be as normal as I can. I am quite tall anyway, so people tend to look at me from head to toe just to check if I’m wearing heels.
Am I meeting some friends? It can be anything from normcore (unpretentious, average-looking clothing) to “too much”. Gosh, if they come to my home, I can even stay in my pyjamas! I will say it depends on my friends and my mood. But the goal is not to be seen, maybe more about showing my friends that I am comfortable around them and be anything.
Am I seeing some friends on a specific occasion? I love to go to goth parties. Goth is the warmest and nicest community. No one will judge your style in a bad way, everybody will love it if you overdress.
But in the end, I try to not focus too much on what I project and just do “me” because any person you come across in the street won’t remember you by the end of the day or even, let’s say you made an impression, they won’t think of you the next day anyway.
PS: I’m not a model (I love food too much to even think about it). Then again, I have very talented and creative friends and I love to be part of their universe, so even if I wouldn’t describe myself as a model, I guess I can say amateur or wannabe model.
Image from Vogue Magazine.December 1988.
You wear vintage main line Gaultier, Gaultier Jeans and Junior Gaultier, what got you into the various lines?
It all started with a jacket my mother found on a stand in our city market that happens every Sunday. So, she buys it for me and says she has no idea what the brand is but it’s fully reversible, with a black side and a camouflage printed side. I looked in the pocket and found that it was a junior Gaultier. I started wearing it, and it became my favourite jacket. It’s comfortable, but the cut is so cool, puffy but cinched at the waist.
So, I happened to be a bit monomaniac and started to look for more Junior Gaultier. At first, I would be obsessed with the Junior line only. And then the older ones, Gibo / Equator, etc. I’ve said that already, for me “the older the better”. I really think the quality was something else.
Recently, I have succumbed to the more recent lines with the mesh craze. I won’t lie, I am a follower and seeing so many mesh items worn by friends and celebrities etc. really made me want those items too. Also, sometimes the oldest lines won’t fit as well as the more recent ones because they weren’t designed for women as tall as I am. Even if you like a certain line more than the others, you have to acknowledge what fits you better and adapt.
Why vintage over new?
The quality is way better, and you can afford items that you saw as a child and teenager for peanuts (well not anymore, unfortunately). I also feel that if you buy something that isn’t new, has already some stains and tears, it’s easier to wear and not feel guilty if something bad happens to it. Of course, you want to avoid damage to your precious items, but it’s part of life. So, if it’s already a bit damaged and you already had to mend it a bit, I feel it just makes things easier.
Photos courtesy of Morgane.
For what occasion would you wear the gold lurex that you’re modelling in the photos?
I will actually wear the gold lurex to a Christmas event this year, as a matching outfit with the friend I am attending the Christmas party with. Gold is not the easiest colour to wear, so that event appeared to be the perfect moment to be a human incarnation of a Ferrero Rocher. We just want to have fun, and we believe that being in a matching outfit that is so spectacular will make the party better!
It looks a bit scratchy to wear, is it?
It’s not scratchy at all by the way and it’s actually a bit stretchy!
And what is it that you like about the “Voyage Autour du Monde en 186 Tenues” collection that it comes from?
The collection has a lot of similar silhouettes in many fabrics and colours and displays powerful women, strong pieces with lots of details, without vulgarity. There’s something “costume-like” in some of the clothes that I really love.
Miley Cyrus
Stars wearing Gaultier
In March 2023 Miley Cyrus wore the lurex bodysuit in a post on Instagram to celebrate her single “Flowers” being number one on Billboard’s Hot 100 for the sixth week in a row.
Junior Gaultier fans often comment on the leopard print pieces. The Junior print is quite understated and classy by today’s animal print standards, but why do you think leopard print has kept its appeal over the decades?
I really have no idea haha! I guess it’s a classic print, we are used to it, and it’s always a fun thing to wear. It’s at the same time classic, but also part of pop culture. I now personally prefer it in natural shades because it can easily be a bit too much but hey, who am I to judge? I had pink leopard print tights 20 years ago!
Read about stylist Riccardo Slavik’s views on queered ‘neutral’ leopard print.
Advertising photo from Jena Paul Gaultier’s Cyber collection of 2022. © Jean Paul Gaultier.
I think you have items from both the original Cyberbaba and the recent Cyber Collection reboot. What is the difference between the two in terms of manufacturing quality?
About the Cyberbaba collection, I will say that the vintage prints feel more detailed but quality and fitting-wise, I love the new ones, they just fit me better and the fabrics are softer. We will see in 30 years how those recent editions have aged. I have not been disappointed at all by the re-edition and feel we were given a great opportunity to buy those vintage prints that are now way too expensive to even think about it. And if anything, wrong happens, you don’t feel guilty about destroying some precious vintage item.
Those new editions are here for us to use, play in, and enjoy. If you just buy to have them sleep in your drawers, well maybe yes, save a bit more and invest in the vintage one if you can 🙂
© Jean Paul Gaultier.
Still not sparkling enough?!
Then get the matching shoes from the same collection. The outer fabric is woven gold material, and the insides are lined in leather.
The kitten heels and soles are rubber, reducing the chance of slipping on the dance floor whilst dancing to Lisa Stansfield’s apt song “All Around the World” from 1989.